Daydream in blue (Kraków, part 4)

December 1, 2015 § 2 Comments

Ul. Jagiellonska

So much has been written about Kraków’s fairy-tale beauty, and about how the Old Town, particularly the Rynek, resembles a stage set. But if you visit at the height of tourist season, it’s hard to photograph, much less walk around, without bumping into crowds.

There’s a simple solution – take advantage of the long August days and get up with the sunrise. This is the roll I shot early in the morning of my last day in Kraków, on and around the Rynek, before the city was fully awake. I was experimenting with a new film – Lomochrome Turquoise, to be precise. I had no idea what colour effects would come into play, but let’s just say this is probably not the last time I’ll use it… it turned out to be perfect for capturing the silence and emptiness and delicate melancholy of Kraków in the early hours.

Ul. Jagiellonska 2

Town Hall tower

Mariacki Church

Adam Mickiewicz


St Adalbert

Mariacki tower

St Barbara

Mariacki roof

Fountain sculpture

Mariacki double exposure

(Technical specs: Diana F+ camera, standard lens, Lomochrome Turquoise XR 100-400 film)

Symbolist Kraków: a beginner’s guide

November 28, 2015 § 5 Comments

Pałac Sztuki (Palace of Art), pl. Szczepański, Kraków

Pałac Sztuki (Palace of Art), pl. Szczepański, Kraków

If you initially mistook the building in the photo above for the Vienna Secession, don’t feel too bad – it’s Kraków’s very own Secession, deliberately modelled on the Viennese one. One of the reasons I was so keen to visit Kraków was its art – well, a very particular strand of it. Some of the most marvellous and distinctive Symbolist art came out of Poland, the work of a group of young artists, designers and writers who banded together under the name Młoda Polska (Young Poland). Almost all of it has remained in Poland, and as a consequence (and, no doubt, thanks to the language barrier and the decades of the Iron Curtain), it’s shamefully little known outside its own country. I only really discovered it in the last year or so, and I’ve been a student of Symbolism for close to 15 (!) years now, so, appetite whetted by the few English-language books I was able to get my hands on, I wanted to see the real thing.

If you want to get acquainted with Młoda Polska, you can’t really do better than visit Kraków, which was its heart and nerve centre… although, fortunately for the rest of Poland but unfortunately for me, the National Museum in Warsaw also has a very important collection of it, which happens to include my absolute favourite painting, Józef Mehoffer’s The Strange Garden

Józef Mehoffer, The Strange Garden (1902-3)

Józef Mehoffer, The Strange Garden (1902-3)

(If, like me, you love this painting but are going to Kraków rather than Warsaw, please do not do as I did and live under the delusional hope that it will for some reason be on special loan to one of the museums in Kraków while you’re there. You will just be frustrated and disappointed. Bite the bullet and buy a train ticket to Warsaw instead. Or plan a future trip…)

So, without further ado, here is my little guide to Symbolist Kraków. Reckon on it taking three days to see everything if you want to do it at a civilised pace, especially as a couple of things (namely Wawel Cathedral) are part of larger monuments or museums.

Jama Michalika

Jama Michalika

You’re going to need fuel for your Symbolist odyssey, so where better to start than at Jama Michalika (Michalik’s Den), the Młoda Polska cafe to end all others? The interior, which was decorated by many of the artists who hung out there, is mind-blowing. However, I’m going to be heretical and suggest that you don’t actually eat breakfast there. I’ve heard the food is overpriced and not great, and I skipped it in favour of a coffee which was also… rather underwhelming, which made me glad I hadn’t ordered breakfast. So eat breakfast at your hotel, or grab an obwarzanek (Kraków’s answer to the bagel) from a cart on the way there. Order your lacklustre coffee and gawk at your surroundings while you sip. Then go. You’ve got a lot to see…

National Museum Kraków

National Museum Kraków

The National Museum (main building) is the place to start, particularly if you’re a newcomer to all things Młoda Polska. The collection is on the top floor, with major works by all the big names – Jacek Malczewski, Józef Mehoffer, Stanisław Wyspiański, Wojciech Weiss, Olga Boznańska, Józef Pankiewicz (whose breathtaking nocturnes give William Degouve de Nuncques a serious run for his money) and a whole host of artists I’d not heard of before but want to learn more about. However, if you want to see more of Mehoffer and Wyspiański, you’ll need to venture beyond the museum walls…

Mehoffer House

Mehoffer House

…to, first of all, the Mehoffer House, a branch of the National Museum in the house where Mehoffer spent the last fourteen years of his life. It’s still furnished more or less as it was in his day, packed with his paintings (including a couple of small studies for The Strange Garden) and, best of all, some of his stained glass (Mehoffer and Wyspiański, as well as being brilliant painters, were two of Poland’s leading stained glass designers, in much the same way Edward Burne-Jones was in England):

Mehoffer stained glass

The garden is also worth a prolonged wander (and a stop for coffee, which is better than what you’ll find at Jama Michalika), although sadly (or perhaps fortunately) you probably won’t encounter a giant golden dragonfly there.

Mehoffer House garden

(Also in the same street is Cukiernia Michalek, a bakery which sells excellent makowiec. Just saying.)

Next stop – plac Szczepański. Not only can you see the gorgeous Pałac Sztuki (whether you venture inside is up to you – it still hosts temporary exhibitions, so it’ll depend on what’s on), but there’s another excellent branch of the National Museum on the other side of the square. It was once the Wyspiański Museum, and I’m a bit sad that it no longer is, because Wyspiański was a fascinating figure and a true polymath – artist, designer of furniture and stained glass, poet, playwright (his play Wesele [The Wedding] is still a fixture of the Polish theatrical repertoire) – but it’s now something more expansive and all-embracing, the Feliks Jasienski Szołayski House. Jasienski was an art historian, critic, aesthete and collector and Młoda Polska’s most important advocate. The museum houses his massive collection, which ranges from Młoda Polska to contemporary French art to Japanese art (although most of the latter is across town in another great museum, the Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology), and was hosting two big and very worthwhile exhibitions when I visited – one on Jasienski’s collection, the other on nineteenth-century French prints. The latter is on until 3 January and the former until next July, so catch them if you can!

Wyspianski Pavilion

Wyspianski Pavilion

Now the hunt for all things Młoda Polska becomes an extended chase after stained glass. First stop – the Wyspiański Pavilion just south of the Rynek. This strange modern building’s main raison d’être is a tourist information centre, but it also contains three amazing windows – posthumous realisations of Wyspiański’s rejected designs for windows for Wawel Cathedral. The windows depict Poland’s patron saint and two greatest monarchs – Kazimierz the Great, St Stanisław and Henry the Pious – as skeletal spectres, which proved a bit too much for the cathedral authorities, who handed the commission to Mehoffer instead.

Speaking of which, you’d do well to head over to Wawel – and then to the Mariacki Church.

mehoffer wawel

Window by Józef Mehoffer, Wawel Cathedral

Infuriatingly, none of the maps or audioguides for either church point you to any Młoda Polska work (though they’re very eager to tell you about Veit Stoss), so you’ll have to keep a sharp eye out. Mehoffer, Wyspiański and colleagues contributed stunning windows and murals to both churches, so go slowly, look carefully and you’ll be richly rewarded.

Stanislaw Wyspiański, God the Father, Basilica of St Francis

Stanislaw Wyspiański, God the Father, Basilica of St Francis

But if you want a real Wyspiański extravaganza, head for the Basilica of St Francis. The thirteenth-century basilica was gutted by fire in 1850. Forty-five years later, Wyspiański was commissioned to redecorate it – completely. All the windows and murals are his work; most of them feature gorgeously elaborate floral motifs but the most famous, deservedly, is the swirling drama of God the Father at the west end of the nave.

The final stop on the Młoda Polska tour is a little sneaky, in that it’s inside a building not technically open to the public. The Medical Society House – which is just what it says on the tin and is tucked away on a small street about ten minutes’ walk from the centre of Kraków – contains another stunning set of windows by Wyspiański…

Stanisław Wyspiański, Apollo: The Copernican Solar System (1904), Medical Society House

Stanisław Wyspiański, Apollo: The Copernican Solar System (1904), Medical Society House

Ring the bell, ask the porter if you can see the windows (I’m not entirely sure what the correct Polish phrase is, but a garbled ‘Proszę, witraże Wyspiańskiego?’ got me waved in) and prepare to be amazed.


You’d have to go a very long way indeed to see anything else like it.

In Kazimierz (Kraków, Part 2)

October 30, 2015 § 3 Comments

Old Synagogue, Kraków

Old Synagogue, Kraków

Whenever I told anyone I was going to Poland for my summer holiday, I tended to get two reactions: people who had been told me that I’d made an excellent choice, that Kraków was lovely, etc.; people who hadn’t would give me an odd look and say dubiously, ‘oh, that’s… brave/adventurous/different.’ (I guess the image of it as a grey, joyless Communist hellhole is more persistent than I thought.) But nearly everyone, regardless of whether they’d visited or not, inevitably had the same question: are you going to visit Auschwitz?

My answer was a defiant, resounding no. For three reasons, the chief being that I’m a great big coward. The other two being that a. I’ve heard from everyone I know who has visited that it irrevocably colours the rest of your trip, and I didn’t want this to be the case on my first visit to Poland and b. I was travelling alone. I couldn’t imagine enduring that visit without having someone to talk to about it afterwards. Or a shoulder to cry on.

(Even if I had wanted to go, the numerous tour operators dotted around Kraków advertising trips to Auschwitz and to the Wieliczka Salt Mine as if the two were somehow equivalent chilled me to the bone.)

The compromise was that I would visit the old Jewish neighbourhood, Kazimierz, and Oskar Schindler’s factory across the river in Podgorze, which has recently been turned into a museum. So the morning of my second day in Kraków, I set out.

Kazimierz was once an island surrounded by an arm of the Vistula and, although it was filled in in the nineteenth century, it still feels rather separate from the old city. It’s mid-morning by the time I turn off the main boulevard into Kazimierz and the streets are already suntraps, baking in heat that promises to get worse. There are few other pedestrians apart from tourists; anyone with any sense who isn’t at work is hanging out in one of the scores of cafés.

Kazimierz is beautiful in a humbler way than the fairy-tale Stare Miasto: unmistakably old, battered by time, scorched by sun. Most of the buildings lining the main thoroughfares now contain trendy cafés and shops. If you didn’t know better, you’d never guess that this was once one of the biggest Jewish neighbourhoods in Poland. You could easily be in Hackney or Brooklyn or – perhaps the most pertinent comparison – the Marais.

Old Synagogue interior

My first stop, after an hour or so of aimless flânerie, is the Old Synagogue, which is now a museum, no longer used for worship. The exhibits chart the history of Kazimierz and of Kraków’s Jewish community up until the Second World War. Many of them – prayer books, candlesticks, Torah crowns – have a tragically cobbled-together feel, and the wall texts make no bones about that – they’re what was left after the destruction.

Vistula bank

By the time I emerge, it’s later than I thought, so I head straight over the river to Podgorze, past buildings and courtyards that feature, according to my guidebook, in Schindler’s List – I wouldn’t have known otherwise, as I’ve never seen it. (My parents deemed me too young to see it when it came out [I was fourteen; were they being overprotective? Answers on a postcard…], and for some reason or another, I’ve never got round to watching it since.)

Apart from the green banks of the river and the splendid rusty towers of a new museum dedicated to the avant-garde director Tadeusz Kantor, Podgorze looks drab and anonymous; it could be a gradually gentrifying working-class industrial suburb anywhere in Europe. There’s no sign that it once contained the ghetto in which the Nazis imprisoned the Jews of Kazimierz on the way to the labour camp of Plaszów or worse – apart from a square now dedicated to ‘the martyrs of the ghetto’, its vast expanse scattered with sculptures of outsize overturned chairs, symbolic of the plunder and destruction of the Jews’ possessions.

Plac Bohaterów Getta

Plac Bohaterów Getta

Schindler’s factory is down a couple of back streets and under a railroad bridge. It still looks like, well, a factory (although it now also has a contemporary art museum as a neighbour). I’ll admit to no small amount of trepidation as I go in, flash my ICOM card at the ticket desk, and enter the museum.

Schindler's Factory

Schindler’s Factory

I didn’t take any photos inside. There are no signs forbidding it, but I couldn’t bring myself to – neither, it seems, could any of my fellow visitors (this might be the only museum on earth immune to the plague of selfies). What I can say is that it is one of the most compelling and thoughtfully curated museums I have ever visited. It plunges you into the darkness and horror of the Nazi occupation, the ghetto and Plaszów without ever straying toward the cheap and sensationalistic. I am, at many points, really glad I didn’t go to Auschwitz: this is about all I can take.

Wisely, perhaps, the museum saves the few points of light in the darkness for the end – the stories of the citizens of Kraków who risked their lives to protect the Jews. Schindler takes pride of place for obvious reasons, and they’ve recreated his office down to the last detail, but there’s little insight into what made this man, who was no saint in either public or private life and, by all accounts, as venal as they came, put his business and life on the line to rescue more than a thousand Jews. Perhaps no one will ever really know.

By the time I emerge, nearly three hours later, into the sun, I feel battered, numb. I walk back along the river to Kazimierz in a daze. The iced coffee I order in a café beside the Little Father Bernard footbridge suddenly seems obscenely luxurious.

Remu'h Synagogue

Remu’h Synagogue

There are still several synagogues to visit. Like the Old Synagogue, most of them are no longer in use. The High Synagogue is now a cultural centre with an excellent bookshop on the ground floor. The Remu’h Synagogue used to be the second largest and second most splendid after the Old, but it is now a sad ruin – supposedly currently under restoration, but the ladders, scaffolding and plastic sheeting look as if they haven’t been touched in a while.

Remu'h Cemetery

Remu’h Cemetery

I end up going to a turn around the cemetery instead. It’s quiet and only slightly overgrown, most of the thin upright stones so worn by weather and time they’re illegible. There’s a memorial made of broken stones set into one of the walls. How many more broken stones do they represent?

Remu'h wailing wall

The last synagogue on my list is the Isaac Synagogue. I am not sure I can face another ruin or empty shell, but I press on. As I round the corner, I notice groups of young Hassidim heading in the same direction, and I realise I’ve been seeing small knots of them all around Kazimierz today. When I ask the man at the front desk for a ticket, he shakes his head.

‘You can’t come in now. There’s a service.’

I glance through the open door into the sanctuary and see a sea of black coats and hats, hear the muted buzz of conversation: the service hasn’t started yet, they must be waiting for the rabbi. Any disappointment I might have felt melts away. It’s still being used! After everything I’ve seen today, this feels like a victory. Small, but no less real.

New Cemetery

New Cemetery

My last stop is the New Cemetery, which came into use at the turn of the century when the Remu’h cemetery reached capacity, cut off from Kazimierz by railroad tracks. A graveyard might seem an odd place to go for solace on a day like this, but that is exactly what it proves to be. As I wander along under heavy green shadows, eyes skimming the headstones, I notice something unexpected and cheering.

A remarkable number of death dates are post-1945.

The worshippers in the Isaac Synagogue might be recent arrivals to Kraków. The cemetery seems to offer proof that Kraków’s Jewish community was never completely obliterated.

I walk back to Kazimierz and the restaurants ringing the main square are setting up for the evening. I can’t help thinking of the wry but rather accurate joke that all Jewish holidays can be summed up in the following three sentences:

They tried to kill us. They failed. Let’s eat.

It doesn’t sound like bad advice right now. I choose a restaurant called the Klezmer Hois, go in and order chłodnik and herring, Lithuanian style. Halfway through the first course a klezmer band starts its set. Many of the melodies are familiar from my childhood, but now a particular quality of the music strikes me as never before: at its most wildly joyous, it still sounds mournful; at its most sorrowful, it still contains the germ of a dance.

I walk back to the Old Town and out of a Kazimierz that is coming back to life – and perhaps never entirely died – past another synagogue recently brought back into use, my head still wrapped in the bitter-sweetness of the music.

Here be dragons (Kraków, Part 1)

October 10, 2015 § Leave a comment

Krakow dragon

The infamous Wawel Dragon (Bronisław Chromy, sculptor)

As foundation legends go, Kraków has one of the best: it’s said to be built on the back of a dragon. The dragon’s lair was conveniently located in a cave at the foot of the Wawel Hill, which happened to have been an ideal location for building a castle, and the rest is history.

So – yes, after some frustration and unexpected obstacles, I finally made it to Kraków at the end of August. It was a city I’d wanted to visit for years, given an extra layer of meaning because the trip represented the first time I’d ever visited a country from which my family originally came (one of my paternal great-grandfathers was born and raised in Radom, although he left as a young man and I very much doubt I have any relations left there).

Unfortunately, Polish ancestry doesn’t guarantee any facility with the language and my initial encounter with it was… humbling, to say the least. It is a beautiful, melodious language but for someone whose experience of foreign tongues falls neatly into Romance and Germanic, there’s precious little familiar ground. And that’s without reckoning with all those terrifying, endless rows of consonants. I once heard a humorous explanation of why Welsh and Hawaiian are the way they are: a migrating tribe before the dawn of time had to bail out their boats in the middle of an Atlantic storm, and all the consonants fell out and floated to Wales, with the vowels washing up in Hawaii. I suspect something similar happened on the Baltic… all the consonants ended up in Poland, the vowels, in Finland.

Thankfully, Kraków is a tremendously hospitable city, whether or not you can speak the language, and my shoddy Polish proved no obstacle at all to enjoying it.

Mariacki tower

The Rynek Glowny (main market square) and the Wawel Hill (site of the castle and cathedral) are without a doubt the most recognisable, best known and most heavily touristed places in Kraków. I’m not really sure the world needs more photos of them. But like virtually every visitor to Kraków, I fell prey to their beauty and couldn’t stop snapping…

Mariacki Church

Mariacki Church

Street performer

Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Adam Mickiewicz never visited Kraków (poor man!) but he ended up with the best spot in town – in front of the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), facing the Mariacki Church. On second thought, it might not be the best. He may be beloved of Poles and Pan Tadeusz is on school syllabi the length of the land, but unfortunately his statue is also beloved of pigeons…

Adam Mickiewicz with pigeons


The upper terrace of the Sukiennice offers the best views of the Rynek – much better than you’ll get on the ground. But as well as looking down, you’d do well to look up.

Sukiennice grotesqueSukiennice grotesque (2)

These grotesques are the work of Santi Gucci, one of a number of Italian artists and architects who worked in Kraków during the Renaissance. They ornament the entire perimetre of the Sukiennice’s roof, no two alike.

Wawel Castle courtyard

Speaking of Italy, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were there… but no, that’s the inner courtyard of Wawel Castle. Designed by Italian architects, but adapted to the Polish climate – hence the height of the upper storey and the pitch of the roof, which you’d never come across in Tuscany.

Wawel Cathedral

I have to admit to preferring the cathedral, though. (But all I came away with was exterior shots – no photography permitted inside, which was infuriating as the interior contains sculpture by Veit Stoss and windows by several Polish Symbolists – of the latter, more in a future post.)

Cathedral dragons

There’s one charming detail on the exterior that I couldn’t resist, though: the gutter spouts are all shaped like dragon’s heads.

Wherever you go in Kraków, you’re never far from a dragon.

Purple haze (St Dunstan in the East, Part 2)

September 5, 2015 § 4 Comments

St Dunstan 1

Remember when I shot a roll of black & white film at St Dunstan in the East back in February and said I’d go back in the summer and do it again in colour?

Chose promise, chose due.*

I made it back a few weeks ago, while I was on holiday and had the luxury of going in the middle of a hot, sunny weekday… this time with my first ever roll of Lomochrome Purple. Here are the results.

St Dunstan 2

St Dunstan 3

St Dunstan 4

St Dunstan 6

St Dunstan 7

St Dunstan 8

St Dunstan 5

St Dunstan 9

St Dunstan 10

St Dunstan 11

St Dunstan 12

*A promise is a debt.

(Technical specs: Diana F+ camera, Lomochrome Purple 100-400 film, standard lens)

Fifteen years

August 21, 2015 § 3 Comments

University College London: main quad

University College London: main quad

In my tour of my previous homes in London last year, I left one out: the first. The student house in Bloomsbury where I passed the first six months of what I had no inkling at the time would turn out to be a sojourn in London that, although somewhat broken up by moves to France and the States, has now passed the ten-year mark.

I left it out for a very simple reason – it’s hard to go home again if you’ve never actually left. In contrast to Harringay, Stoke Newington and Highbury, Bloomsbury has never ceased to be part of the tapestry that makes up my London. Although I was only ever a student at UCL for six months, it’s a rare fortnight that I don’t end up in Bloomsbury at least once, whether to visit a museum or a library, spend longer than I planned browsing in a bookshop (especially if it’s the London Review Bookshop, which would definitely make my list of the Ten Most Dangerous Bookshops in London… hmm, maybe that’s for a future post), or go to the cinema. I pass my old house all the time and give it a fond glance every time I do, but this familiarity means it lacks the unsettling charge of any of my other old haunts.

However, this year I thought was a fitting one for a return, if only because it marks fifteen years since I first landed in London. I had originally intended to go for my psychogeographical wander on 5 January, which was the actual anniversary, but because I’d had to postpone my holiday trip to the States by a week because, thanks to the negligence of some low-level civil servant, I hadn’t received my renewed visa in time (thanks a lot, Home Office!) I found myself still in sunny California on that day (don’t get me wrong, there are worse places to be). I then thought about doing it in June, which was the month I left, but I couldn’t remember the exact date and I didn’t want to commemorate what had been a wrenchingly sad occasion (I’d stayed up the better part of the night before I left in floods of tears; a tad melodramatic, yes, but at that point I thought I would never see London again).

So, in the end, I settled on a random Sunday in August with no particular significance. Such is life…

My first glimpse of London (not counting Heathrow and the stretch of dreary suburbia along the Piccadilly line between it and Hammersmith) was the bottom of Tottenham Court Road just outside the Tube station, so I decide to recreate my first day in London by starting there.

Tottenham Court Road station

Of all points on the path to my old house, this end of Tottenham Court Road has undergone the most radical changes; less jarring to me because they’ve occurred under my eyes over a number of years, but if I truly had been away for fifteen years and was only seeing it afresh for the first time, I’d be shocked.

Old Tottenham Court Road station entrance

The old Tottenham Court Road station was one of the grottier Underground stations (though I had no way of knowing this that first day, having nothing to compare it to – in any case, the Chicago subway was hundreds of times nastier, so it looked palatial to me), but I distinctly remember that when it spat me out onto the pavement – grubby and horribly jet-lagged after my first transatlantic flight, dragging what felt like all my earthly possessions in two suitcases and a messenger bag like a particularly overloaded snail, but so abuzz with joyful anticipation that my very nerve endings were alight – that grotty, noisy, traffic-choked intersection with its unglamorous shops and smoke-blackened facades looked like paradise. On the northwest corner there was a Virgin Megastore (long gone), on the southeast corner a skyscraper that looked like a cheese grater on Miracle-Grow (a skyscraper in London? I was confused; I thought they were a uniquely American phenomenon), on the southwest corner a tourist-fleecing greasy spoon called Dionysus at which I ate the worst fish and chips of my life that first evening, and beyond that, the legendary Astoria.

Centre Point

Now all of that is gone (well, not the skyscraper, although it’s covered in scaffolding), ploughed under by Crossrail. The new station entrance is slick and spacious, which can only be a good thing, but I can’t help mourning the passing of the Astoria (though not Dionysus). I recently came across an article in Time Out on the twenty-eight signs that you’re a true Londoner and number six was ‘You direct people using buildings that no longer exist as landmarks. “Oh it’s straight past the Swiss Centre, left at the end and then right at Astoria. You’re welcome!”’ Guilty, guilty!

As I stride past the Dominion Theatre (which had Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake when I first arrived but now has Michael Flatley’s latest extravaganza, talk about going from the sublime to the ridiculous) I can’t help seeing my twenty-year-old self tagging along beside me – exhausted, bedraggled, weighed down by luggage, naïve and shy, gawking at everything in sight, clad in head-to-toe Old Navy, which was more or less the official uniform at my university. (I returned from my two terms at UCL with a handful of dresses and skirts and a pair of pretty sandals – the first to grace my wardrobe in years – and the most frequent comment back in St Louis was ‘Ooh, you look so European now.’ It was never clear whether this was meant as a compliment or a criticism.)

How I’ve changed – outwardly, inwardly. The naïveté and shyness have gradually given way to confidence and comfort in my own skin; the terrible clothes to something that better reflects who I am. Today I’m wearing oxblood Bolongaro Trevor jeans. Fifteen years ago there was very little red in my wardrobe; now it’s one of the dominant hues. It’s a colour that exudes confidence, but you have to be confident to begin with to pull off wearing it.

L Cornelissen

Great Russell Street, in stark contrast, looks much the same as today as it did back then. The artists’ supplier, L. Cornelissen & Son, is still there and the window display looks as marvellously, defiantly old-fashioned as ever (mahl sticks, no less!). The restaurants and hotels and newsagents, too, all more or less unchanged.

Bloomsbury Street

Bloomsbury Street, too, has changed very little. Not so Bedford Square, but in this case the change is decidedly for the better: fifteen years ago it was the eye of a whirlpool of traffic; about ten years ago it was redone to make it more pedestrian-friendly.

Bedford Square 1

Bedford Square 2

Bedford Square palings

Bedford Square exerted a strange fascination on me back then. That beautiful oasis of green and sylvan quiet in the midst of a severe grey Georgian square – but encircled by an impenetrable fence of iron palings that had been there so long that some of the larger trees at the perimeter had actually grown around them. I ached to get in there and revel in the green silence. One of my UCL friends was exceptionally tall and I hit upon the clever plan of getting him to hoist me over the fence on his shoulders; ‘all right,’ he said, clearly amused when I explained it to him, ‘how are you planning on getting out again?’ As I didn’t know anyone with a key and I didn’t really want my time in London to end with me in jail for attempted lock-picking and trespass, I had to abandon my plans. Instead I imagined the garden tended by a brother of Oscar Wilde’s Selfish Giant who had the reverse problem (he wanted to let children in to play, but couldn’t; it was eternally spring in his garden while it was winter outside) and wrote a poem about it which was very, very bad indeed, so I won’t subject anyone to it by posting it here.

Gower Street

Pre-Raphaelite house

Gower Street – my street – starts just the other side of Bedford Square. Almost every other building has a blue plaque on it, and the first one I saw denoted the house in which the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood was founded in 1848. I was dumbstruck the first time I saw it. Some of my favourite artists (indeed, partly responsible for my ultimately deciding to desert English for art history) had actually gathered here, in this unassuming house that looked no different from its neighbours, to throw down a gauntlet to the establishment! The irony was that, back in 2000, said house was occupied by the London Computer Centre, something which I imagine would have had all the artists (and probably John Everett Millais’s father, whose house it was) turning in their graves. Today it’s empty, between owners. I hold out the vague (and probably vain) hope that the next tenant is one somewhat more congenial to the memory of the prior occupants.

Senate House


Little else has changed in Gower Street. Most of the houses on the east side of the street are still occupied by various departments of UCL or other colleges of the University of London (the Art Deco façade of RADA is still my favourite). The Totalitarian Deco monstrosity that is Senate House (Orwell’s model for the Ministry of Truth in 1984, and it’s obvious why) still looms at the end of Keppel Street. (It remains my least favourite academic library in London, one I tend to view as a last resort.)

Ridgmount Gardens

The mansion block in Ridgmount Gardens in which I used to fantasise about living someday is still there – although I suspect the price of a flat in there now hovers around a million. Oh well, it’s nice to dream…


The neo-Gothic fantasy that is Waterstones still holds court over Torrington Place. When I first arrived in London, it had only just become a Waterstones and most of the price stickers still said ‘Dillons’. Waterstones/Dillons was a two-minute walk from my house. This was dangerous in the extreme – not only for my bank balance but also for the sheer number of hours I could happily while away there when I should have been working on an essay. I blame it for at least a couple of the all-nighters I pulled.

I have the same attitude to bookshops in London as James Joyce had to pubs in Dublin (‘good puzzle would be cross Dublin without passing a pub’ – the solution being to stop into every one on one’s route) so I pop in for old times’ sake and come out feeling quite sad. The place is a mess. Whole sections are empty, or very sparse. It looks as if it’s in the midst of a transitional period, and I can only hope it comes out the other side looking more like its old self.

UCL Engineering School

The building opposite Waterstones used to be the Engineering School lecture theatre, which I got to know very well not for engineering reasons, but because that happened to be where the University College Opera rehearsed. I was part of it (student chorus, professional soloists and conductor, revivals of obscure operas) and had the time of my life. The production we put on that year was that star in the European operatic firmament, an early 20th-century verismo opera called The Jewels of the Madonna which is seldom performed (and notorious) because, among other reasons, the third act features an on-stage orgy. Yes, you read that right.

UCL has undergone a massive programme of new building and general spiffing up in the last decade and a half, so the old lecture theatre is no more. The new Engineering School is smart and state-of-the-art but I can’t help feeling a twinge of nostalgia for the ramshackle old one.

Foster Court

Around the corner is Foster Court, still home of the English department, scarcely changed (at least on the outside) from my time there. It’s shut (Sunday out of term-time, what did I expect?) but its walls hold a lot of happy memories. Seminars on the contemporary Scottish novel (which I signed up for because I couldn’t get over the fact that we got to read Trainspotting – for class!) led by a young postdoc whose soft-spoken diffidence clashed hilariously with the gusto with which she quoted profanity-riddled passages of Irvine Welsh and James Kelman. Seminars on Jane Austen led by the wonderful John Mullan (of whose stature I had no idea at the time, silly me). Tutorials – tough, bracing, always fascinating – with my tutor, the marvellously and aptly-named Alison Light. (She’s retired now and writing full-time, which is a loss for UCL but a gain for the rest of the world.)

And finally, on to my old house.

Arthur Tattersall House 1

It looks more or less exactly as it did when I lived there; my room faces onto the street but the curtains are drawn. Not that there’d be much to see right now, as it’s probably empty, waiting its next set of occupants. (One of the previous ones after my time there was, by spooky coincidence, one of my cousins.) The interior wouldn’t have won any design awards – it looked as if it hadn’t been redecorated since the Second World War (literally – there were even chips of blackout paint still clinging stubbornly to the windows, if you looked close enough). And yet of all the student accommodation I lived in as an undergraduate, I was by far the happiest there. I’d shared the room with an English and dance major from Emory who, on paper, I should not have got on with at all (socially confident, loud, bit of a pothead) but she ended up being the best college roommate I ever had. We tolerated each others’ differences with respect and humour, lent each other books, shared trips to the theatre and made the rounds of most of the cheap curry houses in Drummond Street. We lost touch after we left London, but I recently looked her up and was thrilled to see that, in spite of fierce parental opposition (which was why she was studying English as well as dance) she’s built a successful career as a dancer and choreographer.

Arthur Tattersall House 2

I’m almost at the end of my wanderings. I put my head into the main quad of UCL and make a quick detour to the other side of Tottenham Court Road to see if the newsagent where I bought many a late-night Cadbury bar to help power me through an essay is still there (it is!) before ambling back past my old house.

It is an unwritten rule that any psychogeographical exploration of one’s past should end with coffee and cake, and this is where one of the more welcome changes in Bloomsbury becomes apparent. Back when I first lived there, there was a conspicuous lack of cafés. All right, that’s not strictly true – there were a handful of cafés in that peculiarly English mould with cold cases full of sandwich fixings and a few rickety tables and chairs, where you could count on a decent pot of tea but you’d only order coffee if you were feeling adventurous (read: foolhardy). It was a bit of a jolt coming from St Louis, where a lot of my social life was conducted in coffeehouses, partly because I was underage but mostly because my friends and I just liked them. In London I was suddenly old enough to enter a pub, and I ended up spending a lot of time in them with my opera friends, but I couldn’t help longing for good coffee. At the time, the only place nearby that offered something resembling it was the Caffe Nero in Tottenham Court Road (now one of four or five).

Now Store Street boasts not one but three excellent cafés. After a bit of debate, I choose Store Street Espresso and I’m not disappointed. (But, reader, do not abandon common sense like I did and order a matcha cookie along with your cold-brew coffee. The cookie is delicious. So is the coffee. Together, it’s a recipe for an almighty headache.)

I kept a journal during that first six months (which now makes excruciating reading) and as I head back toward Tottenham Court Road station, my brain rattling with the caffeine overdose, one sentence I wrote that first night comes back to me: ‘Every paving stone here is fascinating.’ (I’m not sure, but I think I might possibly have underlined most of the words.) Coming ‘home’ has been salutary, and not only because, unlike the other three of my former London homes, Bloomsbury’s memories are of almost pure happiness. It’s also reminded me to pay more attention to what has now become ordinary and everyday. To not take for granted what a continually surprising and wondrous place I live in.

I might not be that unworldly and easily impressed twenty-year-old anymore. But I haven’t entirely lost my sense of wonder. I hope I never will.

The Broadway Market curse

August 13, 2015 § 6 Comments

Well, it’s finally happened.

I have become one of those obsessives who stalks eBay in search of expired film. There are currently a couple of rolls of twelve-year-old Fuji Velvia slide film in the door of my fridge, keeping the eggs and a knob of ginger company while they wait to be taken out for a spin.

I used the first roll on a trip to Broadway Market, not coincidentally the first place I tried out my then-new Diana three years ago. But Broadway Market and my camera don’t seem to be the best of pals. The first time I didn’t have a clue what I was doing, and the film was too fast for my taste (and therefore grainy… REALLY grainy. That was the first and last time I used 800). This time I shot the whole roll and then, as I was putting the camera back in its case, realised I’d had it on the wrong aperture setting the entire time. But there was nothing for it but to get the film developed and see what would happen.

Most of the shots, predictably, are too dark. But there were a few worth saving…

canal boat




broadway flowers

double exposure canal

I’m not discouraged; I’ll go back and try again. Third time lucky…?

(Technical specs: Diana F+ camera, Fuji Velvia 50 slide film (cross-processed), standard lens)


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